The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is during the dormant season and in the fall after leaf drop or early spring before bud break. Weather conditions are cool and allow plants to establish roots in the new location before spring rains and summer heat stimulate new top growth. However, trees properly cared for in the nursery or garden center, and given the appropriate care during transport to prevent damage, can be planted throughout the growing season. This tree planting service guide applies also to tree transplanting and shrub transplanting.
In either situation, proper handling during planting is essential to ensure a healthy future for new trees and shrubs. Before you begin planting your tree, be sure you have had all underground utilities located prior to digging.
Tree Root Trauma
If the tree you are planting is balled or bare root, it is important to understand that its root system has been reduced by 90 to 95 percent of its original size during transplanting. As a result of the trauma caused by the digging process, trees commonly exhibit what is known as transplant shock.
Containerized trees may also experience transplant shock, particularly if they have circling roots that must be cut. Transplant shock is indicated by slow growth and reduced vigor following transplanting.
Proper site preparation before and during planting coupled with good follow-up care reduces the amount of time the plant experiences transplant shock and allows the tree to quickly establish in its new location. Carefully follow nine simple steps, and you can significantly reduce the stress placed on the plant at the time of planting.
Steps to Plant a Tree or Shrub
- Dig a shallow, broad planting hole – Make the hole wide, as much as three times the diameter of the root ball but only as deep as the root ball. It is important to make the hole wide . Breaking up the soil in a large area around the tree provides the newly emerging roots room to expand into loose soil.
- Identify the trunk flare – The trunk flare is where the roots spread at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted. Find it so you can determine how deep the hole needs to be for proper planting.
- Remove tree container for containerized trees – Carefully cutting down the sides of the container may make this easier. Inspect the root ball for circling roots and cut or remove them. Expose the trunk flare, if necessary.
- Place the tree at the proper height – Before placing the tree in the hole, check to see that the hole has been dug to the proper depth. The majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches of soil. If the tree is planted too deeply, new roots will have difficulty developing. Always lift the tree by the root ball and never by the trunk.
- Straighten the tree in the hole – Before you begin backfilling, make sure that the tree is straight.
- Fill the hole gently but firmly – Fill the hole about one-third full and gently but firmly pack the soil around the base of the root ball. Then, if the root ball is wrapped, cut and remove any fabric, plastic, string, and wire from around the trunk and root ball to facilitate growth. Be careful not to damage the trunk or roots in the process. Fill the remainder of the hole, taking care to firmly pack soil. Add the soil a few inches at a time and settle with water.
- Stake the tree, if necessary – Staking for support will not be necessary in most home landscape situations. However, protective staking may be required on sites where lawn mower damage, vandalism, or windy conditions are concerns. If staking is necessary for support, two stakes used in conjunction with a wide, flexible tie material on the lower half of the tree will hold the tree upright, provide flexibility, and minimize injury to the trunk. Remove support staking and ties after the first year of growth.
- Mulch the base of the tree – Mulch acts as a blanket to hold moisture, it moderates soil temperature extremes. Some good choices are leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or composted wood chips. A 2- to 4-inch layer is ideal. Be sure that the actual trunk of the tree is not covered. A mulch-free area, 1 to 2 inches wide at the base of the tree, is sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions and prevent decay.
- Provide follow-up care – Keep the soil moist but not soaked; overwatering causes leaves to turn yellow or fall off. Water trees at least once a week, and more frequently during hot weather. Continue until mid-fall, tapering off for lower temperatures that require less-frequent watering. Continue with step 9 until mid-fall, tapering off for lower temperatures that require less-frequent watering. Other follow-up care may include minor pruning of branches damaged during the planting process.